Venice

Venice
Thanksgiving 2004

Venice is a Renaissance theme park, like a Michelangelo Disneyland. It was just like in the pictures, everywhere you go it's a Kodak opportunity. I had a great time and didn't even mind much that I was alone. Johnny and I planned to do Venice before he died on January 1 and I decided I'd go anyway. I just went wherever my feet took me or just jumped into any waterbus that comes by and went wherever it went and got off and explored if something seems appealing in that stop. It wasn't crowded at all and the weather was partly sunny, low 50's, no flooding. Most tourists were Europeans, gets there by bus, about 6-8 hours from anywhere in the mainland, lots of honeymooners, there was a large group of Korean and Japanese tourists. I went to non-tourists spots like the island cemetery St Michele, one of a kind. I saw a gondola carrying a coffin covered with flowers on its solitary way to join the funeral party (missed to take pictures of this, I was fumbling for my camera and my waterbus sped by). I hung out at the fresh market, where they sold sparkling fish under tall arches and baroque buildings, and the cheeses and smoked meats spilling over just looked like they're to die for, not to mention the patisserie and you'd love the gelatos, hand made fresh everyday! Checked out Lido just to see what's it's all about. The beach is littered with cabanas that looked like Porta-johns. I can't imagine how they find space to stretch and sun themselves. I stumbled on the Jewish section, the oldest ghetto in the world where the word ghetto was used to designate their segregated community. Shakespeare's famous Jew was from Venice right? The theme park concept continues with evening entertainment. I went to a Chamber concert of Mozart, Bach, and Vivaldi with musicians in period costumes at the Doge's Prisons, crossed the Bridge of Sighs to get there, which was a non-descript footbridge. Also went to an Opera concert of Rossini, Mozart and Donizetti Arias again in period costumes, at the Scoula of S Teodoro. All their buildings are works of art so I didn't bother to join any city tour, just went on my own. Ate at their osterias, had spaghetti with squid and black ink sauce, and grilled seafood, and of course I have to have tiramisu, which originated there. Shopping should have been fabulous and actually cheap since the stores are boutiques and sell one of a kind items made by the owner artisan designer. Knits, leather and Murano glass jewelry and serious gold and precious stone jewelry, are mouth-watering but my shopping budget was already all spent on one item, a 10-piece Murano glass nativity set with 24-K gold highlights, which I had to hand carry all the way. The wines were expensive, still can't afford the Barolos, Brunelos, and Amarones . A half bottle Valpolicella is what I had with dinners, about Eu16. I had dinner conversations with diners at the next table. People are very friendly, and European tourists want to practice their English so they are very chatty. My hotel was very charming, a refurbished palace just steps away from a vaporetto stop, very convenient and a 10 minute walk to San Marco square and to the Rialto bridge, with old world service. What a treat, after all the rudeness of the airline people on my way over. My plane was late from Atlanta missing my connection at Kennedy but they were late too and were still boarding late-comers, so I pressed to be boarded, and this airline agent bitch threatened me and told me she can choose not to board me if I didn't keep my mouth shut. So I kept my mouth shut. It worked for me, this Pilgrim's holiday solo trip, next year I think I'll do Amsterdam.